James Bond – Behind the scenes

JBondRight after I took this photo of the Hummer, I heard yelling behind me.

After few seconds of unsuccessfully ignoring the voice I turned around and saw a young guy perhaps 20 meters away standing behind the wall asking me, and not in a pleasant way,  what did I take that picture for. So I answered calmly that it’s a beautiful car and that I thought it was worth taking a photo of it. Since it was a bit hard to understand what he was saying, against my better judgment, I walked back towards him while keeping waist-high wall and some five meters distance between us. He kept saying that I shouldn’t be taking pictures and that I should delete the photo from the camera. Not being in a mood for a fight (nor in a position really since it was pretty empty part of town with me, that guy and few of his buddies further back behind him but not involved in the conversation) I said, OK, I’ll delete the photo. At that point, his face broke into the huge smile and he said he was just kidding. We shook hands (everyone is shaking hands there, all the time), talked for few minutes and then I left thinking how my impression of people in Accra as being very friendly remains unchanged.

I just added a mental note that they can be pranksters as well.

Contrasts

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To be honest, contrasts can be found in pretty much any city. New all-glass-and-steel tower built amidst old houses or businessmen wearing thousand dollar suits walking past homeless people on the street, you name it – it’s all there.

Nkrumah Memorial Center
Nkrumah Memorial Center
Garbage dump
Garbage dump

When it comes to overall quality of life, in Europe, it looks to me, it degrades somewhat gradually as you move further from the downtown, while in US and even in Canada I found it fascinating that on the one side of the street you may have a bustling city center with business buildings, fancy shops and restaurants but just by crossing the street you find yourself in a neighborhood with rundown or abandoned houses, people drunken or high out of their minds and general feeling of abandonment, disrepair and danger.

From what I’ve seen so far, Accra seems to be even more extreme. Everything looks almost seamlessly mixed up so seeing a fancy hotel with a beautiful restaurant terrace right next to which runs open sewer almost doesn’t seem strange. Here however, unlike US example above where those nasty places were somehow ruined over time, I have a positive feeling about it since it looks like all the “bad” (quotes due to the fact that , admittedly I look at things from typical westerner’s perspective) things are really remnants of the past and that things are actually getting better.

Having said all that, contrasts indeed are huge.

Both photos above were taken within minute or two walking distance.

Market Day

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To be honest, going to a market is not something you will see me doing if I can avoid it. Usually, instead I can be found if not in bed, still fast

Market day
Market day

asleep, then at least sipping morning coffee in a nearby caffe while my “better half” does the shopping. I know number of people loving the whole market-going routine, and everything that goes with it. Me? If you don’t mind, I’d rather steer clear of the whole thing.

Skip to some other country and everything changes. One of the “must” places I always try to see everywhere I go are indeed markets. Museums can wait, squares and alleys I will run into anyway at some point, but real, local market is something to be seen to get a feel for the place.

It’s all here, local food with colors and scents that go with it, local customs and above all, local people.

So, I grabbed a taxi and went towards some mall downtown for no other reason but because it seemed like a good starting point for wandering. Rarely do I have some specific sightseeing plan (especially in somewhat chaotic place like Accra). I much more prefer putting my legs to a good use and explore the place in a more or less random fashion.

While in a taxi, I asked the driver which market would he recommend to see. His answer sounded like a lazy brush-off since he mentioned Makola market and, what a coincidence, first thing I did getting into a taxi was asking him to take me to Makola Mall.

Although I’ve been to that part of town previous Sunday, that couldn’t prepare me for the scene I stepped into once I left the car.

C-H-A-O-S.

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